March 26, 2006

My fourth day in Albania. I was dropped off at my host family’s house today, I was the first one of the group to get handed off. My host family lives in a small village about ten minutes outside of E---- called L---- F----. I arrived and immediately forgot all of the introductory words and greetings that were drilled into us over the last two days, all I could remember was “thank you” – falemiderit – so I just responded to anything that was said to me with that. I also keep getting “Yes” – po, and “No” – Jo (pronounced “yo”) confused, I feel like the Y sound word should mean “Yes.” Have I mentioned that nodding your head means “No” and shaking your head side to side means “Yes.”

They dropped me off with one of the Albanian language teachers, she handled the introductions and sat around for a while translating things while I sat on the couch smiling and sweating through the armpits of my shirt. I’m living with a family of five – two parents, 12 year old daughter and 8-year-old twin girls – there was also a grandmother and grandfather around today, I think they live behind the house. I’m quite the attraction in this village, there were lots of people in and out today, some I think might have been in-laws or cousins, but I really have no idea. People would pop in, jabber at me for a minute, I’d say “Thank you” repeatedly, they would get bored of staring at me, and then wander off.

I attempted to give my host family gifts that I brought from home, but I don’t think they knew what I was trying to do. They just kind took the things I handed them, looked at them for a second, and then left them in my room. I’m not sure what to do with the Michigan picture books, chocolate, picture frames, tablecloths, and jam my Dad made. I think I have to learn the word “Gift.”

I was really dreading dinner with my host family tonight, but it actually didn’t happen. The mother of the house led me to the family room where they had some soup, salad, bread and cheese set up on a T.V. table for me. They put the T.V. on a channel that played American music videos, so I ate there by myself and watched Beyonce and Three Six Mafia videos. There was no sign of the rest of the family, I think they might have been eating at the grandparent’s house outback.

The last week has been a repeat of beginning to gain some level of comfort with something just have it all blown up. After two days in Philly the initial nervousness had worn off, I had begun to meet people and share anxieties and questions, then…BANG, were thrown into planes and buses for a day and half, we open our eyes and were in Albania. Three days in E---- and I’m starting to get used to way the country looks, we’ve had a few nice language classes, I’ve met the staff, we even managed to get a beer at a local watering hole last night. Then the rug is pulled out from under me again, I’m with a host family, and I have absolutely no idea what is going on. As I’m writing this things from this first half-day keep coming back to me, I’ve left out a lot. I have to be at class tomorrow at 8 a.m., I’m not sure how this is happening. I’m going to pass out now.

March 27, 2006

After Shqip – Albanian language – class I spent the day wandering around the village of L---- F----, I attempted to buy shaving cream but got that spray deodorant that I didn’t think was made anymore, had several coffees, and got stared at a lot in general. I found out from my language teacher that Beni is a very common Albanian name and that a favorite Albanian movie is called something like “Independent Beni” or “Lonesome Beni.” Naturally, people have taken to calling me “Beni,” and I’m fairly sure this is going to become my name from here on out.

Had a nice dinner with Baba – my host father – tonight. I learned the word “gift” today and successfully presented jam and a Michigan picture book to Baba. I also showed him a picture of my family, gave their names and ages!…then I ran out of things to say and we stared at each other for what seemed like 6 hours. I think Baba asked about the country of origin of my family, he knew we were American, but I think he wanted to know my family’s descent. I have no idea about our heritage, so I went with German, which prompted some raised eyebrows in the room. It occurs to me now that there may have been some messy history between the Albanians and the Germans. I should look into this.

One of the other Americans placed in L---- F---- is living with a host family in which the father has described himself as a “Worker.” We saw the guy all over town today as we were wandering around, he was alternating between getting coffee, smoking, chatting with people, smoking, getting coffee, and smoking. He speaks a little English, eventually my friend asked him what he did all day. He reverted from the worker profession and instead called himself a “Professor.” And I thought academics had it easy in the United States.

March 29, 2006

One of the four other people that is in L---- F---- with me is an older guy – probably in his sixties – from Texas, I’ll call him Jerry. When I look at Jerry I think: “that there is a Texan.” He’s kind of a wiry guy with squinty eyes that are always darting around, and he walks around Albania with a swagger that draws more attention than the typical American does in this country. He’ll make these kind of obvious declarative statements and then look at you expectantly as if he just said something completely profound. Things like: “I’ll tell you what, this is not Fort Worth Texas; I really do think that learning this language will help us here; dadgumut if I didn’t see some cowpoke clearing the brush.” I made that last one up, but he has said “dadgumut.”

At any rate, I like Jerry, and this afternoon we climbed what I think was a pretty big fucking mountain. The mountains around L---- F---- are stunning, I knew this was a mountainous country, but it’s like seeing the Grand Canyon in person after seeing hundreds of pictures and reading about it, it’s surprising and truly takes your breath away. There certainly aren’t paths up into the mountains, we asked a few townspeople if they had ever hiked up any of them, they give you a look that sort of says: “I live in Albania, my life is not fun, I don’t really feel like walking up in that goddamn mountain you American yuppie.” So Jerry and I just start walking up, picking our way through the “tumbleweeds” and keeping an eye out for “varmints” as Jerry said – actually he didn’t, but I’m sure he wanted to. It was beautiful, One of those walks that make you stop about every ten minutes and think to yourself: “look at where I am right now.” Naturally, I forgot my camera, but Jerry has photos to prove the expedition happened, I think I’ll be able to post those.

Still all good in the hood.